Resin SLA 3D Prints

How to Fix Common Problems with Resin SLA 3D Prints and Make Errors

It’s relatively simple to get started with photocuring 3D printing, and it can produce intricate geometric patterns. Even though this technology has numerous benefits, if you are not extremely skilled at slicing, printing, etc., your print may still fail or turn out poorly. The information provided here demonstrates how to raise the caliber of 3D Resin printing with only a few little changes.

Exposure Period

The drying or exposure time is the primary factor that might make your print successful or unsuccessful. The length of time that the light source will expose each layer during printing is known as the exposure time. Different types of resin or resin printers have various cure periods.

ChiTuBox sets the Exposure Time at 3 seconds by default. This Mono LCD exposure time is sufficient for the majority of resins, however it may be adjusted according on the circumstances. Exposure time may be three times longer, or nine seconds, if you’re utilizing an RGB LCD. Conversely, if the exposure period is too short, it will get less detail or may even fail to take shape. The longer the exposure time, the less detail it will receive and the more twisted it will become.

Clarify and level your bed

Sometimes your model won’t adhere to the construction plate, but you just have to keep trying until it does. After relocating the printer to a new place or during initial printer setup, leveling may be required. Increasing the bottom exposure time by 10–20 seconds is another option. It’s time to clean or level your bed if the solution still doesn’t work. Whether your printer has to be leveled regularly even when it is not moving, you may need to check the side screw and nut tightness or even see if your build plate surface is really uneven.

Orientation in Part

You may acquire various quality by rotating your object in different orientations, much like an FDM printer. Warping occurs with resin printers as well, so if your bottom layer’s surface is very large, the model will be affected and begin to warp. If you are printing at the incorrect angle, you can potentially be losing information. The picture below illustrates the ideal layer height angle to enhance details and reduce layer lines and stepping.

Improve the supports

Many designs need for supports, and when printing with resin, a poorly built support might fail to retain the print, causing it to fall to the base. Light support may help you save some resin, but it might not be big enough to hold your prints. It could work better for strong support, but after removal, it might leave some gaps or artifacts. Make a careful choice. Any printer may use this one. You may look at this list of resin 3d printer.

After the print is finished, remove the support.

A pair of pliers are the perfect instrument for the task when removing support safely. If your model is larger, remove support before curing since there are several methods to accomplish it. because it is simpler to cut off the weaker support structures. If your model is lightweight, you can take it off whenever you choose.

Store unused resin in a cold, dry location, and dispose of tainted water or IPA carefully

If your resin is correctly kept, it can be more than a year before you open it. Resin bottle storage is ideal between 20 and 25 C. If there is any remaining resin in the vat, use a resin filter and funnel to pour it back into the bottle. Or, if you’re as lazy as I am, you could leave it in the vat for a week and a half and give it a good stir with a plastic spatula before moving on to the next print.

Pouring IPA or water polluted with resin down the drain can harm aquatic life. Put them outside and let them evaporate in the sun to dispose of them properly. If you have an empty resin container, fill it with IPA to clean the walls of the container, transfer the resin to a clean plastic bag, expose it to UV light until the IPA has evaporated and the resin has solidified, and then discard the bag.

When FEP Film has large dents or holes, replace it

FEP film may get foggy or have scratches after a few applications. Keep printing since more are continuously coming out, so don’t worry. Many people claimed that you may still use it as long as the UV light can flow through and cure your print, until it starts to have dents and holes. Additionally, the FEP Film is the most delicate component of the printer, therefore avoid using a metal scraper to remove the resin. Use anything made of plastic and carefully scrape the debris off.